Fried chicken blood
“Texture of tofu, tastes like liver” says Shawn, who has taken it upon herself to ensure that I eat a new weird thing each day I’m in Seville. And she’s not far wrong. Sangre encebollada is made initially by mixing fresh chicken blood with water which is then heated until set, then the block is sliced into thick pieces and fried with sweet, soft onions – and what tasted like a splash of sherry, though by this point this could be projection of what is within.
But lo, as weird as chicken blood tofu sounds, it is a triumph. By far my favourite of the weird new shit so far, an iron-rich ballast against beautifully sweet, slow cooked Spanish onions, and without the cloying, overwhelming richness you’d get from a plate full of liver. Don’t get me wrong, it was still served in a portion far too big for one, but it was a real treat, smushed into bread with its tender oniony friend. I’d love to try it with loads of ginger, spring onions and a big squooosh of Sriracha.
To prove I’m not simply on a big swinging dick mission to eat all of the weird Spanish food, here’s some of the other stuff we ate. Today, at lunch. Yes, just the one meal *explodes*.
Also in fried chicken blood restaurant, known as Eslava…
|Duck tenderloin! Okay, what’s that then? Apparently it’s those little tubular fillets that you can prize from the breast. Tremendous, with a sweet and sticky pear poached in a red wine reduction.|
And then in Brunilda…
|Croquetas de jamon, and very good ones too, lovely smack of nutmeg. Equally noteworthy, the giant glass of Albariño lurking in the background, dry, delicious, costing just €2.80 a pop.|
|Praise-a the presa! A cut taken from below the shoulder of a fatty, acorn-rich Iberico pig, simply grilled and served with buttery sweet potatoes and a sauce made with salty Basque cheese, Idiazabal.|
|Seared tuna tataky, chunky tomato concasse, pink pickled onion rings and a parsley dressing. Beautiful bit of fish, the dish a real treat after what feels like an eight month English winter.|
|CHIPIRONES. Mini squid, migas (fried but soft breadcrumbs, in the best way possible) flecked with fried egg and topped with a big quenelle of herring roe. Superb.|
And, I also found a wine shop. OH-OH. So happy.
Jorge Ordonez & Co, both their 2010 Victoria Muscatel (left) and the 2012 Botani dry muscat (right).
Pazo Señorans Albarińo, 2011 (centre-left).
Esencia de la Andana Manzanilla En Rama, bottle number 6758 out of just 10,000 (centre-right).